Burberry Prorsum’s London Fashion Week AW14 show | AFP PHOTO / BEN STANSALLBEN STANSALL/AFP/Getty Images
Art works and art movements have long been musing fashion designers. While some designers capture the essence of art work, and some adapt artworks blatantly, a blurred boundary between art and fashion is now a trend. In honour of London fashion week, we have compiled a list of our favourite designer collections on the catwalk of 2014 that are inspired by Art.
Christopher Bailey | The Bloomsbury Group
2014 AW, London
The Burberry catwalk show this season is called ‘The Bloomsbury Girls’. Designer Christopher Bailey said he was inspired by the British decorative art of artists in London’s Bloomsbury Group of the early 20th century, which included painters Duncan Grant and Roger Fry. The collection was an explosion of rich yet natural colour, with lots of cameo pink, antique rose, elderberry, burnt amber, olive, and slate blue. ‘What I wanted to do is try to capture that spirit in the collection — the colours, embroideries, the fabrics — but also through all the hand painting on all the bags and the coats and the shoes and the belt,’ said Christopher Bailey.
Amy Powney | Richard Saja
2014 AW, London
For their first London Fashion Week show, Mother of Pearl brought us incredibly rich floral prints on classically feminine shapes such as pencil skirts and chic blouses, combined with sportswear favourites such as crisp shift dresses and boxy short-sleeved shirts for a diverse yet cohesive feel. Since starting as Creative Director in 2010, Amy Powney has streamlined the Mother of Pearl aesthetic using the artists’ work as first hand research and utilising them to feature cleverly as prints within the collection. For this LFW collection, Amy Powney looked to Pre-Raphaelites and textile artist Richard Saja for her designs, which mixed rich prints with sporty shapes, with roses, tulips, daisies and vines grew over clean-cut separates and dresses.
Raf Simons | Sterling Ruby
2014 AW, Paris
Earlier this year, Belgian designer Raf Simons and the Los Angeles artist Sterling Ruby presented their collaborative at men’s shows of Paris Fashion Week, combining what each does best. The fabulous collection, which seems to have walked directly out of Ruby’s artworks, but with Simons’s keen style and attention to detail, was not just another one-off collaboration, but a reflection of their teenage nostalgia.
Pheobe Philo | Brassaï
2014 SS, Paris
Phoebe Philo, Céline creative director has turned her clothes into canvas for her collection for SS 2014 in Paris. Drawing on the photography of Brassaï as a reference to create textiles dripping with thread and marked by bold woven and printed brushstrokes, Philo has turned the more subdued minimalism Céline into the representation of wild and almost tribal gestures, yet still seem to give women grace and dignity. ‘It’s about power and women,’ said Philo backstage.
Miuccia Prada | Muralists and Illustrators
2014 SS, Milan
Prada presented ‘In The Heart of the Multitude’, a collaborative project with muralists Mile ‘El Mac’ Gregor, Mesa, Gabriel Specter and Stinkfish, as well as illustrators Jeanne Detallante and Pierre Mornet for their 2014SS Milan Fashion Week show. The 6 artists also collaborated in designing the environments and settings of catwalk. The one sole restriction they were given by Miuccia Prada was ‘to depict an active, strong woman.’ Mrs Prada sees it as a call out for all women to keep fighting, and as ‘an encouragement to be out there and to do something.’
Prabal Gurung| Bert Stem
2014 SS, New York
Musing on the images from Marilyn Monroe’s last sitting with Bert Stern Prabal Gurung ‘s spring 2014 Collection celebrates the elegant woman, her preservation, and her presentation in a modern context. The collection hosts a consistent focus on technique, construction and fabric innovation, including laminated French laces and silks, tweed woven with plastics and screen printed translucent PVC. It’s tailored silhouettes featuring pencil skirts and off the shoulder sweetheart necklines in bright whites, pastels and saturated neons were fiercely feminine, but with an extra edge.
Jack McCullough & Lazaro Hernandez| Piero Manzoni
2014 SS, New York
The design duo behind Proenza Schouler- Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandezs admit that they don’t look to fashion for inspiration, but rather to elements of culture that include art, which is especially influential to their custom-made textiles. They found inspiration of their spring 2014 collection from the works of Italian artist Piero Manzoni. We can see Manzoni’s influence in Proenza Schouler’s pieces featuring a wild black and ivory web pattern, and cream-colored ensembles with clean silhouettes and intricate horizontal pleating.